Breaking Down Common Misconceptions About Sulfates, Alcohols, and Silicones

Ingredient myths travel fast. Clients arrive with bold claims from social media and packaging buzzwords that demand clarification. Stylists need to speak confidently about what’s in the bottle and what it actually does. Accuracy builds trust.

Sulfates
Sulfates clean. That’s their job. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are surfactants that lift oil and product from the scalp and hair. Their strength can strip moisture when used daily or without follow-up conditioning, but they are not inherently harmful. In fact, controlled use of sulfates is essential for removing buildup, especially in deep-cleansing or pre-color prep.

Low-sudsing formulas aren’t automatically gentler. Effectiveness depends on pH, concentration, and surrounding ingredients. Knowing when to use a sulfate-free option and when to reach for something stronger separates thoughtful service from trend-driven guesswork.

Alcohols
Not all alcohols dry the hair. Short-chain alcohols like ethanol and isopropyl alcohol evaporate quickly and can cause moisture loss when overused. Fatty alcohols—cetyl, cetearyl, stearyl—are emollients. They soften and smooth. They’re common in conditioners for a reason.

When reading labels, length matters. A long-chain alcohol usually signals slip and moisture retention. Clients often react to the word “alcohol” without understanding its structure. Stylists can redirect that fear with clear ingredient literacy.

Silicones
Silicones coat the hair. That’s their purpose. Dimethicone, amodimethicone, and cyclopentasiloxane create smoothness, reduce friction, and protect against humidity. Used correctly, they help prevent mechanical damage and support heat styling. Water-insoluble silicones can accumulate if not clarified occasionally, but that’s a maintenance issue—not a flaw in the ingredient.

Weightless finish, thermal barrier, controlled shine—silicones offer these benefits efficiently. Removing them entirely from a client’s regimen isn’t always the answer. Context matters more than category.