The Toner Truth: How to Properly Use Hair Color Toner for Flawless Results

Hair color toners are essential tools for any stylist aiming to perfect blonde, gray, or any other lightened hair color.

Toners neutralize unwanted tones, enhance hues, and add the finishing touch that makes a color service look polished and professional. However, using toner correctly requires a good understanding of how it interacts with hair color and the precise application techniques needed to achieve the desired result. Here’s a comprehensive guide for stylists on how to properly use hair color toner.

1. Understanding the Purpose of Toner

Neutralizing Unwanted Tones:

• Why It’s Important: After lightening hair, it’s common to see underlying pigments, such as yellow, orange, or red, that can alter the intended shade. Toner is used to neutralize these unwanted tones and bring the hair to the desired cool, warm, or neutral color.
• Common Uses: Toners are most commonly used to correct brassiness in blonde hair, bring out the cool tones in ash blondes, or add warmth to honey and caramel shades. They are also used to refresh faded colors between appointments.

Enhancing or Changing the Tone:

• Customizing the Color: Toners aren’t just for neutralization; they can also be used to enhance certain tones or create a subtle change in the hair’s hue. For example, you can use a violet toner to add a lavender tint to platinum blonde hair or a gold toner to enrich a beige blonde.
• Achieving the Perfect Shade: Toner allows for precise customization, helping to fine-tune the final color to match the client’s desired look. Whether you’re aiming for icy cool tones or warm golden hues, toner is the tool that makes it possible. 
  

2. Choosing the Right Toner

Selecting the Correct Shade:

• Color Theory Basics: To choose the right toner, you need to understand color theory. Use the color wheel as your guide—select a toner with a shade that is opposite the unwanted tone on the color wheel. For example, use a violet toner to cancel out yellow, blue to neutralize orange, and green to counteract red.
• Client’s Desired Outcome: Always consider the client’s desired result. For a cool, ashy blonde, a toner with blue or violet undertones is ideal. For a warmer, more golden blonde, a toner with yellow or gold undertones will work best.

Considering the Hair’s Porosity:

• Impact of Porosity: The porosity of the hair affects how toner is absorbed and how long it lasts. Highly porous hair can absorb toner quickly and may result in a more intense color, while low-porosity hair may take longer to process.
• Choosing the Developer: Pair your toner with the correct developer strength. For most toners, a 10-volume developer is sufficient as it deposits color without lightening the hair further. However, if the hair is highly porous, you might opt for a lower volume to avoid over-processing.

3. Proper Application Techniques

Prepping the Hair:

• Clean and Damp Hair: Always apply toner to clean, damp hair. Shampoo the hair to remove any product build-up or residue that might interfere with the toner’s absorption. Towel-dry the hair to remove excess water, but leave it damp enough to help the toner spread evenly.
• Sectioning: Section the hair into manageable parts. This ensures even application and helps you work more efficiently, especially when toning a full head of highlights or balayage.

Mixing the Toner:

• Correct Ratios: Mix the toner with the appropriate developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Typically, the ratio is 1:2 (one part toner to two parts developer), but always check the specific product guidelines.
• Thorough Mixing: Use a whisk or color brush to thoroughly mix the toner and developer. Ensure that the mixture is smooth and free of lumps, as an uneven mix can lead to patchy results.

Applying the Toner:

• Speed and Precision: Work quickly and apply the toner evenly from roots to ends, or just on the areas that need toning. Since toners can process quickly, it’s important to ensure that all sections are covered within a short period to avoid uneven results.
• Comb Through: After applying the toner, comb through the hair to ensure even distribution. This helps the toner penetrate evenly and reduces the risk of streaks or uneven patches.

Processing Time:

• Monitor Closely: Toners typically need to process for 10-20 minutes, but it’s crucial to monitor the hair closely. Check the hair every 5 minutes to ensure you’re achieving the desired tone without over-processing.
• Rinse at the Right Time: Once the hair has reached the desired tone, rinse out the toner with cool water to close the cuticle and lock in the color. Avoid using hot water, as it can strip the toner and affect the final result.

4. Post-Toning Care and Maintenance

Neutralizing Shampoo and Conditioner:

• Color-Safe Products: Recommend a sulfate-free, color-safe shampoo and conditioner to your clients. These products will help maintain the toner’s effect and prevent the hair from reverting to unwanted tones.
• Purple or Blue Shampoo: For clients with blonde or silver hair, suggest using a purple or blue shampoo once a week to maintain cool tones and prevent brassiness. These shampoos are designed to deposit small amounts of pigment that counteract yellow or orange tones.

Regular Touch-Ups:

• Toner Longevity: Explain to clients that toner isn’t permanent and will fade over time, especially with frequent washing. Depending on their hair care routine, they may need to return for a toner refresh every 4-6 weeks.
• At-Home Care: Educate clients on the importance of regular deep conditioning treatments to keep their hair healthy and prevent the toner from fading too quickly due to dryness or damage.